I already had the motor built (pics in previous post) so all I needed to do was take the current motor (80 mera/vm20/cali pipe) off and swap the gila/v1 on! Didn't take long but I did run into a few complications (of course). The intake can only be mounted if you cut a chunk of the front motor mount off (it doesn't affect the actual mounting of the motor!) because it hits the reed area on the cylinder otherwise. After that I had to mess with shimming my clutch bell, which took a little bit but I got it figured out. Then I proceeded to install the pipe and couldn't figure out how the hell the bracket mounted! One way had this weird dongle extraneous bracket in the way of the pedal crank which just didn't seem right, but I left it that way over night because I couldn't access my gmail on my phone to see the photo from motomatic. So yeah, I mounted it wrong and fixed it this morning. The right pedal arm barely clears the carb but that was because I specifically asked motomatic to make it shoot directly out on the right side instead of at a 45deg angle. I like straight lines, i'm weird. Anyway, it buries the needle on my 50mph speedo and keeps revving. It needs a little more tuning because at idle it is super shitty even with a 10 idle jet. The needle for sure needs to be leaned out, or it needs another needle in general to get rid of the rich load at 1/4-1/2. Temps are in the 360deg range at WOT, so i'm alright with that. In my experience the destroyer pipes tend to make bikes that were properly tuned before the destroyer, run a little hotter even after rejetting. Regardless, it's an awesome setup.
So far my tuning setup is as follows:
HPI timed @ 2mm BTDC
Hammer clutch with red springs
Needle bearing clutch bell (soon to be lightened)
Destroyer pipe
12x44 gearing
Exhaust widened and raised 1mm
Intake widened and brought back 1mm
I'm thinking i'll just snag a different needle if the problem doesn't go away when I lean the needle out.
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